FAQ
Question's you may have for me
How do I get on your waiting list?
By reading my FAQ you are already on the right track! After reading the FAQ please go to my puppy application on my Facebook page or my website and fill out my application. I can also email it to you. Once I have read the puppy application and are approved you will be put on the waiting list. I will not put names on a waiting list until applications are approved.
Do you take deposits when moms are pregnant?
I never take deposits on puppies before they are born. There is so much that can happen through breeding, whelping and the first several weeks of life and I do not know how many puppies I will have.
When do you take deposits?
I take deposits when the puppies are 2-3 weeks old. I try to wait until 3 weeks old. Like I said above “so much can happen through breeding, whelping and first several weeks of life.” But a puppy won't be picked out to be held until 5-12 weeks old depending on if the puppy is going to show home or pet home.
I see a litter, or puppy I am interested in. Can I place a deposit so I have the first selection?
Frost Valley Siberians always reserve the first pick of any litters. (Sometimes second and/or third pick too) Once the puppies are old enough to show their personalities, structures, and dispositions I separate the puppies from show homes and pet homes. Once pet home puppies are set aside. At that time disposition, temperament and personalities are assessed the family can choose which puppy they want. If a puppy is being held back for show. Picking out that puppy for the show can and will usually never be picked before they are 7-8 weeks of age. Sometimes it is much clear to by the age of 9-12 weeks old for a show puppy. Frost Valley Siberians will be picking out their show puppy or puppies first. If the deposit was already paid then your puppy will be held. If no deposit the puppy won't be held.
Why do you do nonrefundable deposits?
The nonrefundable deposit assures me that you are very serious about buying a puppy. It's like that saying “keep the honest honest”. It's the best insurance policy for me to know that you are serious and that the puppy is considered yours. I do refund a deposit if the puppy gets sick or dies. If you paid a deposit and you don't choose a puppy from the litter you were on a waiting list for I can roll the deposit to the next litter. The deposit is good with me indefinitely anytime you choose a pup in the “future.” If you are not sure and don't want to lose your nonrefundable deposit DO NOT SEND ONE IN!!!!!
Can I choose my puppy myself?
Yes! But puppies are evaluated at 5-8 weeks old and sometimes 9-12 weeks old (if for show home). At that time I will decide which puppies will be available for show homes, and which will be available for pet homes. Then you will be able to pick out your puppy.
Can I name my puppy or do you name the puppies?
Yes! Once you have picked out your puppy you can name the puppy whatever you want. I only name the puppies if the puppies aren't picked. It helps to teach them to recall when they have names.
Do you only have show quality puppies?
No. While I always strive to produce Siberian Huskies that are as close to standard as possible, every litter will have "pet" quality puppies. This does not mean that they are of poor quality in any way. Many of my "pet" puppies could do well in the show ring, but since I must be very selective about who is shown I only make a limited number of puppies available for show. A couple of my “pet” puppies are service dogs and soon to be therapy dogs.
Do you breed wooly Siberian Huskies?
No, I don't breed wooly coat Siberians. There might be some in my bloodlines but not much. The reason I don't breed woolies is that they are not to the breed standard. Woolies are also a disqualification. If I do produce a wooly it will go as a pet only and be spay or neutered.
NOTE:
While I understand many people have preferences of coat color and eye color I do NOT breed for coat color or eye color. If you will only accept a puppy of certain color/markings or even eye color please be aware it may be much longer before you can pick a puppy. While I ask what coat color and eye color you prefer on the application, I do ask for a second option.
What have the puppies been taught before they go to their new homes?
My puppies that are born here are exposed to "training" from the moment they are born. I do extensive biosensor work with them starting from day 3 after born. Here is an article on this type of training and what is beneficial. http://breedingbetterdogs.com/article/early-neurological-stimulation
When their eyes are open and they can hear with their ears they spend most of their time right in my living room, where they are exposed to household noises, vacuum cleaners, dishwashers, TV, children, dogs barking, etc. I also play a lot of YouTube videos on my laptop that plays noises like garbage trucks, catfights, blenders, city noises, shooting guns, vehicles running or honking their horns and airplanes. This ensures your puppy is well adjusted to scary noises and will not be easily upset later on in life.
Starting at 3 to 4 weeks old puppies are potty pad trained. Naturally, puppies do not want to sleep in their own waste and will seek out a place to potty. When you take your puppy home you can continue to use this method to provide an area at night for your puppy to relieve itself and during the day to encourage potty time outside.
Puppies are introduced to other dogs, a horse, and children while with me. By introducing them to such a wide array of sights and sounds, your puppy will be ready to venture out into the world as a happy, healthy, well-adjusted member of the family. When its time to start weaning the puppies I make them all eat together to help prevent any food aggression along the way. I watch each puppy making sure that they all ate or got enough to eat. While they are eating I put my hand in the food dish and mess with their mouth. This also helps in preventing food aggression. I do this every day until they leave home. I also work with the puppies on toy aggression. When puppies are playing with toys I reach to grab the toy. This I do every day to help avoid toy aggression. I also teach the puppies to sit, lay down and stay. Depending on how fast they learn I will also do other tricks like speak, paw, other paw, and army crawl. About two weeks before puppies have to go to their new homes I work on collar and leashing training. I mainly use a harness because I don’t want to hurt the puppy’s necks since most of them don’t like it.
What is your "health guarantee"?
72-hour health guarantee, 3-year genetics defect guarantee and lifetime guarantee free from DM & CD & XLPRA1 & AHE & GM1. I try to health test all of my breeding stock before they are bred. Accidental breeding do happen and I try my best to avoid those. I do want to make sure your puppies live as long as possible to provide years of love and enjoyment to their human families. Unfortunately sometimes due to unforeseen circumstances, a puppy from health tested parents have a health issue. If at any time your puppy is diagnosed with hip dysplasia, juvenile cataracts, corneal dystrophy, and progressive retinal atrophy before the age of 3, your puppy is covered under my guarantee. If a puppy is diagnosed with any of this before the age of 3 years old you must have two different vets diagnose the puppy. Once the two vets show puppy has a health issue I will replace the puppy from a future litter. It will be the same quality of puppy (pet or show) as the puppy you purchased. You can either return the puppy to me or can keep it. Please be aware if you give your puppy away or put your puppy to sleep or do any surgery without authorization from me, your guarantee is void and I will seek justice for the return of puppy.
I would like to breed my pet puppy just once before they are fixed. Is this ok?
No!!! I do not allow my pet quality puppies to be bred. There is no health benefit to breeding a dog before they are fixed. Breeding should only be done to improve the breed, and after health tests are done. If you are interested in breeding, let me know and I will be happy to talk to you about showing dogs, and the steps that are needed to be taken to breed dogs as a reputable, ethical breeder.
Do you offer Full Breeding rights?
Yes and no. I only will do Co-Own with my puppies. However, I will only offer full breeding rights to breeders that have years of experience and do dog shows along with OFA health testing. I will not sell full breeding rights to anyone that doesn't do dog shows or OFA health testing.
I see you have an option for a "Show Dog in a Pet Home." or "Guardian Home" What is that?
Sometimes I have a puppy that is exceptional and I would like to keep him or her in my program but sometimes I do not have enough space. In this scenario, I will place the puppy in a pet home or co-own at a reduced rate. The new family will allow this puppy to be shown at my expense and later bred. This is not for everyone; however, if you are interested in possibly showing in the future but you can not afford the financial or time commitment, or are interested in one of my show puppies, but not interested in taking on showing yourself, this may be an option for you. I have to warn you there will be a STRICT contract on the pet home or co-own puppy that I will want for a “Show dog in pet home” or Guardian home." The main rule will be you the owner will not be allowed to breed the puppy to any other dog. Only I get to breed the dog.
Do you offer lifetime breeder support?
Yes, I do!! I love to help and support anyone that has one of my grand puppies. I also love to help and support anyone even if they don't have one of my grand pups. I am here to help from the day the puppies leave my home until they pass the rainbow bridge.
What kind of payments do you accept?
Cash, check (personal or cashiers), money order, Walmart to Walmart, Western Union and Facebook. I don't like using Paypal they aren't very trustworthy or reliable. I might consider using it, but I don't like to and will avoid it. The best and safest way is a money order through the Post Office. Cash ONLY the day the puppies are picked up or delivered.
Do you take back your puppies?
Yes! I will take back any of my puppies no matter what age they are. I am here for my grand puppies and want the best for them.
Will you allow your puppies to go to their new homes before 8 weeks old?
No!! Puppies need to stay with their moms because it teaches them manners humans can't teach, corrects their bad behaviors, teach them to respect other dogs, less likely to develop aggression, won't develop separation anxiety, and they will have less behavioral issues. It is very important that puppies stay with their moms till their 8 weeks old.
Do you OFA Health Test your dogs?
Yes, I do!! It is very important to get the dog's health tested to see if they have any genetic issues. It is the best most responsible and ethical thing to do.
Do you allow people to visit the puppies after their born and before they go to their new homes?
Many people question if they can pick out, see, or play with their puppies before they are ready to go at 8 weeks old. The answer to the question is NO!!!!!!! There are several reasons why I do not let anyone around the new puppies between birth and 8 weeks – all to protect my dogs and your puppy/puppies. Below you will find not only details as to why the answer is no but also information to help you understand.
First, it is extremely stressful for the mom to have strangers visit as she is caring for her new litter. This, in turn, will put stress on the newborn pups. Remember, you are one of many people who is getting a puppy, not including everyone else who “just wants to peek at the new babies.” If I allow everyone to see, touch, or spend time with the new pups, the mom’s routine would be disrupted: her eating and caring for pups and even her ability to produce enough healthy milk for them could be at risk.
Like a new baby, the opportunity for young pups to pick up infectious diseases is increased with all new contacts. Their immune systems are building, so at this time, the moms and pups live in whelping nests that have controlled temperatures and are separate from all outside traffic. Most illnesses and diseases are innocently carried on people’s shoes and clothing. Entire litters of puppies can be wiped out within 48 hours by the puppy killer parvovirus. This disease could be picked up unknowingly by people in a schoolyard, a park, or on a sidewalk, and this is only one disease. I cannot risk exposing my dogs and your puppy to diseases that could destroy them.
Your puppy is not the only puppy. By protecting all of mine/your puppies from stress and disease that could be brought on by high traffic, I am protecting your puppy. Just think about how you would feel if someone who just wanted to see his or her pup happened to bring in stress or illness that would cause me to lose a litter and you to lose your future puppy. I have heard from many people that pet stores, other breeders, or other kennels let clients visit puppies; the reality is that their number one concern is selling a puppy. Also, will those people be there to support you, replace the puppy, or guide you in the days, weeks, or years after you get your puppy home? Are they willing and capable to help you with training, breeding, behavioral, or health questions? Just because someone allows you to see the puppy, it does not indicate the quality of the dog or of service you will receive throughout the puppy’s lifetime. I am not saying a breeder is bad because they allow you to visit. They are just putting their puppies at risk and that is their choice, but I will not allow my puppies and your puppy to be at risk.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I take great care and much time caring for all of our dogs and their puppies. It is time and energy-consuming. This is what I do best, so please let me do it. I understand your excitement, and I am happy that you are enthusiastic about getting your pup. But until you take your puppy home, I am responsible and the puppy’s health and safety is my priority. I guarantee you that in 8 weeks after the birth it will be well worth your wait.
HOWEVER, when puppies turn 4 weeks old I travel to different towns with the puppies so they can get socialization from people, the puppies can get used to car rides, see new environments, and hear new & different sounds. I bring washed clean blankets and lay them down on the ground that doesn't have a lot of dog traffic. I put my exercise pen on top of the blankets and put the puppies inside their clean pen. I post on my Facebook page a date, time, and location the puppies and I will be at and I also post rules of what to do before coming to see the puppies. Rules are that you wear freshly washed clean clothes, no stopping anywhere, no petting other dogs or animals and when you arrive I give you protective shoe covers to go over your shoes and germ mix to put on hands. Once that is all done you can go into the pen to meet the puppies. I try to do everything I can to make sure my puppies are in a safe clean environment and safe from people bring any sicknesses/diseases. I feel like this is a great way for puppies to get socialization and for people to meet them and me.
Do OFA certified parents mean your puppies will have good hips?
No, and yes. Hip dysplasia is a complicated, multifactorial disease. It can involve many factors. Genetics certainly play a big role, but nutrition, body weight, environment, muscle mass, and even hormones all may play a role as well. So as long as you take great care of your puppy by giving it good quality food, supplements, enough exercise, working out to build muscles, and not a harsh environment your puppy will have good hips.
I don't believe in spaying or neutering my dog is that ok?
No that is not ok!!! All dogs should be spayed/neutered unless it is being bred to better the breed, to standard, and to show quality. People say that not spaying or neutering their dogs is preventing cancer. Wrong!!! Whether or not your dog is intact or fixed there is still a chance your dog can get cancer. There is never a guarantee for cancer. The best thing you can do is to make sure your dog is getting the best quality food and good exercise. It is proven and it is best to spay or neuter your dog when it is 1 or 2 years old. Always best to wait till their a little older. Getting a dog fixed helps a lot in unplanned litters and more dogs from going to the shelters or pounds.
Do you offer discounts?
Yes, I do! I offer a $100 discount to returning customers, Military, Police, Firefighters, EMT's, and anyone that refers a new client to me. (Refer- only applies if the person you referred buys a puppy from me)