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Available Puppies For Sale

All Holding Deposits are NONREFUNDABLE!!!!

I will take a $400 NONREFUNDABLE Holding Deposit on these litters and can roll a deposit over to a different litter. This holding deposit is good indefinitely with me for any pup at any time when a pup is available. If you are not sure and do not want to lose your holding deposit Do Not Send One In!! 

Please Note: Frost Valley Siberians always reserves the first pick of any litters. (Sometimes second and/or third pick too). This is standard with breeders, because we did the work to produce the litter, and we are trying to improve on the breed. By picking the best puppy for our needs and breeding program, I hope to improve my own breedings and the breed in general. Usually, a good evaluation of a puppy cannot be reasonably made until 7-8 weeks of age. Sometimes it is much clearer by the age of 9-12 weeks. Families won't get to pick their puppy until I have made my choice.

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Click buttons to see Available Puppies & all Information  

I care and love my puppies, so I require that a puppy application is completed in order to be considered for one of my puppies. I also love to stay in contact with the families of my puppies whenever possible.

Click the Button for the Puppy Application.

What I do with my Puppies

I take pride in taking care of and loving my puppies. I bond very closely with each puppy from the day they are born till the day they go to their new homes. Once puppies are born and have spent some time with their mother for a couple of days. I do daily exercises with each puppy. There are five exercises I do with each pup every day.

  1. Tactical stimulation (between toes)

  2. Head held erect

  3. Head pointed down

  4. Supine position

  5. Thermal stimulation

1. "Tactical stimulation" I start out by holding the pup in one hand, I gently stimulate (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. I do this for 3-5 seconds no more than that.  I want the puppies to get used to their feet being touched and handled so that it makes it easier to clip puppy’s nails and handle their feet.

2. "Head held erect" I start out by using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up) so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. I do this for 3-5 seconds no more than that.

3. "Head pointed down" I start out by holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. I do this for 3-5 seconds no more than that.

4. "Supine position" I start out by holding the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep. I do this for 3-5 seconds no more than that.

5. "Thermal stimulation" I start out by using a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. I do this for 3-5 seconds no more than that.

I do all five of these exercises once per day for no more than five seconds. I believe it helps puppies have better circulation and will help with handling them better along the way. Once puppies get older I will be to rubbing and handling their feet. Also, start to touch every part of their body so they’re not worried or stressed about it when they get older. When its time to start weaning the puppies I make them all eat together to help prevent any food aggression along the way. I watch each puppy make sure that they all ate or got enough to eat. While they are eating I put my hand in the food dish and mess with their mouth. This also helps in preventing food aggression. I do this every day until they leave my care. I also work with the puppies on toy aggression. When puppies are playing with toys I reach to grab the toy. This I do every day to help avoid toy aggression.  Also, while the puppies are with me I teach the puppies to sit, lay down, paw, other paw, stay, leash training, potty training and crate training. I post videos of their training. 

EVEN THOUGH I WORK WITH THE PUPPIES AND TRAIN THEM DOES NOT GUARANTEE THEY WILL BE LIKE THIS WHEN GO TO NEW HOMES. THIS IS THE NEW OWNERS RESPONSIBILITY TO CONTINUE THE TRAINING.

 

I start feeding my puppies NuVet at 4 weeks old every day. I cut the NuVet into fourths to feed to the puppies. Under 6 weeks old the puppies are relying on their mother's colostrum (highly nutritious milk produced right after birth) for the antibodies it needs to fight infection. The NuVet fills the immunity gap all puppies experience. Shortly after birth maternal antibody effectiveness is greatly reduced. By 8 weeks the puppy's immune system is at a vulnerable point. Once in their new homes, the immune system is weakened by the stress of adoption and exposure to the novel (means new germs) bacteria and viruses in their environment. This is also when the vaccine series is started. Vaccines are most effective if the immune system can respond properly. Studies have shown that when puppies receive antioxidant supplements, the immune response to vaccination dramatically improves. Puppies that are fed an antioxidant supplement have exhibited a drastic increase in immune function compared to those on a standard diet.

All my puppies get de-wormed with Nemex at ages 2,4,6 and 8 weeks of age. If they are here longer they get de-wormed at 12 & 16 weeks old. Puppies get their first set of shots from the vet at 7 weeks old. Studies have shown that a puppy getting shots at 6 weeks old is pointless because they don't absorb or work at such a young age. Shots need to be at least 3-4 weeks apart because if vaccines are to close together it is not good for the puppies.

Here is an article that will help explain about shots. http://www.petmd.com/dog/puppycenter/health/evr_vaccines_and_your_puppy  

 

I never give my puppies or my dogs the Bordetella shot (also known as the Kennel Cough).

1. The Vaccine Doesn’t Work All That Well

2. The Vaccine Is Not Safe

3. Somebody Did Some Bad Math

 

I worked at a Doggy Daycare for a couple of years and my experience was that all dogs that had the bordetella shot always got the kennel cough. Dogs were always sick and it upset a lot of clients. After work, I would sometimes go to my parent's house to visit and my clothes would be cover in kennel cough. (Note: At the time I didn't really know better or think about it. Which is why I am more safe with what I do in my home.) My parents never give their dogs the bordetella shot because they live in the country and never go to the groomers or daycare. My parent's dogs never caught the kennel cough from my clothes (kennel cough can be transmitted from clothes and air). Also, my Huskies were around other friends dogs that had the kennel cough and they never caught it.

 

Here are a couple of articles to help you decide if you wanna do the bordetella shot. 

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/bordetella-does-your-dog-really-need-the-kennel-cough-vaccine/

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/three-critical-problems-kennel-cough-vaccine/

I also don't vaccinate my puppies against Leptospirosis. Here is why.

  1. It does not provide effective immunization

  2. It has an extremely high rate of adverse reactions

  3. There have been some reports of Lepto killing dogs.

If the vaccine doesn't work and doesn't protect my dogs then why am I putting more chemicals in my dogs? My family's small dog had a severe reaction to the shot. I will never give my puppies or dogs the Lepto.

 

Here are a few articles to help you decide if you wanna do the Lepto shot. 

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/leptospirosis-vaccine-side-effects/

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/report-lepto-vaccine-uk-dogs-dying/

http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/leptospirosis-vaccine/

All Puppies Go Home With The Following:

1. Spay/Neuter Contract (AKC Limited registration paperwork witch will be sent after the puppy is fixed and proof sent to me)

2. 72 Hour Health Guarantee & 3 Year Genetics Defect Guarantee & Lifetime Guarantee free from DM & CD & XLPRA1 & AHE & GM1

3. Vet Records (Vet Check/Health Exam & Fecal Examination & Blood Panel)

4. First Round of shots (7.5 weeks old) and dewormed (2,4,6 & 8 weeks old)

5. Microchipped

6. Week Supply of NuVet Supplements

7. Puppy Pack (leash, collar, harness, a bag of food, couple toys, bully sticks, binder FULL of info on the breed along with caring for your puppy and a blanket with mom, siblings and my scent)

8. Lifetime breeder support

(Things will always be added to the puppies go home packs)

Many people question if they can pick out, see, or play with their puppies before they are ready to go at 8-weeks-old. The answer to the question is NO!!!!!!! There are several reasons why I do not let anyone around the new puppies between birth and 8 weeks – all to protect my dogs and your puppy/puppies. Below you will find not only details as to why the answer is no but also information to help you understand.

First, it is extremely stressful for the mom to have strangers visit as she is caring for her new litter. This, in turn, will put stress on the newborn pups. Remember, you are one of many people who is getting a puppy, not including everyone else who “just wants to peek at the new babies.” If I allow everyone to see, touch, or spend time with the new pups, the mom’s routine would be disrupted: her eating and caring for pups and even her ability to produce enough healthy milk for them could be at risk.

Like a new baby, the opportunity for young pups to pick up infectious diseases is increased with all new contacts. Their immune systems are building, so at this time, the moms and pups live in whelping nests that have controlled temperatures and are separate from all outside traffic. Most illnesses and diseases are innocently carried on people’s shoes and clothing. Entire litters of puppies can be wiped out within 48 hours by the puppy killer parvovirus. This disease could be picked up unknowingly by people in a schoolyard, a park, or on a sidewalk, and this is only one disease. I cannot risk exposing my dogs and your puppy to diseases that could destroy them.

Your puppy is not the only puppy. By protecting all of mine/your puppies from stress and disease that could be brought on by high traffic, I am protecting your puppy. Just think about how you would feel if someone who just wanted to see his or her pup happened to bring in stress or illness that would cause me to lose a litter and you to lose your future puppy. I have heard from many people that pet stores, other breeders, or other kennels let clients visit puppies; the reality is that their number one concern is selling a puppy. Also, will those people be there to support you, replace the puppy, or guide you in the days, weeks, or years after you get your puppy home? Are they willing and capable to help you with training, breeding, behavioral, or health questions? Just because someone allows you to see the puppy, it does not indicate the quality of the dog or of service you will receive throughout the puppy’s lifetime. I am not saying a breeder is bad because they allow you to visit. They are just putting their puppies at risk and that is their choice, but I will not allow my puppies and your puppy to be at risk.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I take great care and much time caring for all of our dogs and their puppies. It is time and energy-consuming. This is what we do best, so please let us do it. I understand your excitement, and I am happy that you are enthusiastic about getting your pup. But until you take your puppy home, I am responsible and the puppy’s health and safety is my priority. I guarantee you that in 8 weeks after the birth it will be well worth your wait.

HOWEVER!!! When puppies are 4 weeks old I do take the puppies out in public. I post on my Frost Valley Siberians Facebook page a date, time and location I will be taking my litter for people to meet and for my puppies to socialization. I have rules for people to follow if want to see my puppies. 

RULES for seeing puppies 

1. Must put on fresh clean clothes

2. Must not stop anywhere before meeting the puppies

3. Must not touch any dogs or any sort of animal

4. Clothes must stay as clean as possible!!!!!!!!

I lay out fresh clean blankets on the ground and put an exercise pen on top of the blankets that way the puppies have a safe clean environment. 

Then when people arrive I give protective shoe covers to put over your shoes and give you germ x to disaffect your hands before going and seeing a puppy.

 

I make several trips to different locations for puppies and people. 

Here is why I do this:

1. So people can meet the puppies and meet me

2. So puppies get socialization from people

3. So puppies can get used to being in new environments

4. So puppies can experience all sorts of different sounds  

I try my best to keep my home and its surroundings safe and clean from anything life-threatening to my puppies. So with my trips to different places for puppies, I try and pick a place that wouldn't have dogs running around to contaminate the area. I normally pick parking lots that are pretty much empty. 

So if you are interested in a puppy and want to participate in seeing the puppies I recommend following me on Facebook.

 

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